The Witch’s Castle is a fairly well-known historic landmark in Portland, Oregon. For those of you who are from out of town, or new to Portland, however; its interesting history and lovely wooded setting make it a fun place to visit.
Forest park
The park itself is beautiful. A sign at the trailhead reads,
“Forest park is one of the largest forested urban parks in America; featuring over 80 miles of trails throughout 5,000-plus acres. While stands of trees might be the first thing you notice, the intricate web of plants and animals found within the park is really a study in diversity. This unique park includes mixed forests of deciduous and coniferous trees, with a very few old cedars, douglas-firs, and hemlocks. More than 100 bird and 60 mammal species make their homes in these diverse habitats.”
The well-maintained trails roll up and down small hills, lined with picturesque wooden fences and moss-draped trees. My friend Ayla pointed out plants with black stems. She explained that traditional Native American weavers used them to make baskets. She also noticed small mushrooms camouflaged by brown wood and autumn leaves.
The Witch’s Castle pops up unexpectedly along the trail. A handful of people were climbing on it and taking pictures, and one fellow-hiker offered to take our picture standing on the second floor. The trail was moderately-trafficked with hikers, joggers, and dog walkers and, as usual, the people we shared the trail with were smiling and polite.
History
The story, oft retold, has myriad variations. It features Danford Balch, a homesteader who filed a land claim (or a businessman who bought the land) in the mid-1800s and a man named Mortimer Stump, the worker (or one of the workers) he hired to help him clear some of the land. Danford had eight children and his eldest daughter, Anna, fell in love with Mortimer. When Mortimer asked for Anna’s hand in marriage, Danford firmly said no so the couple threatened to elope. Danford told Mortimer he would kill him if they did.
They eloped of course, and Danford is purported to have gotten very depressed and started drinking heavily (or he claimed he was bewitched by his wife), depending on the version you read. When the couple returned to Portland, possibly with some of Mortimer’s family, Danford shot and killed Mortimer and was later executed for his crime.
The land passed down through the family until it was given to the city in the late 1800s.
In 1930, Portland Parks and Recreation built the Stone House near the original home site, to be used as a ranger station and public restroom, but it was badly damaged in a storm in 1962 and abandoned.
In the 1980’s the derelict building was discovered by local students, who dubbed it the Witch’s Castle and began holding parties there on Friday nights.
Sentiment
Yes, the building is in disrepair and the roof is missing from the second story. Some people complain about the graffiti. Personally, I think the Witch’s Castle is beautiful. The moss-covered stones and colorful graffiti make it an unusual and cheerful-looking sight along the wooded trail.
Opinions about the Witch’s Castle (or Stone House) vary greatly. Wikipedia has a number of quotes that illustrate the breadth of sentiment.
“The Stone House “looks like Tolkien-esque ruins, if Middle-earth had taggers.”
Erik Henriksen
“Sixteen coolest and creepiest abandoned places” in the Pacific Northwest.”
Kale Williams
“It’s a disservice to…your friends… if all that you ever show them…is that broken-ass stone house that’s actually just a vandalized 1930s public restroom.”
Kathleen Marie
“A gnome home-esque structure… covered in bright green moss.”
Scott Steinberg
Articles on websites such as:
- “The Travel,”
- “Sinister coffee and creamery,” and
- “Did you know facts”
allude to haunting and ghost stories. They don’t seem to bother tourists and locals who frequent the area, but I’ll let you be the judge.
Visiting Forest Park
If you would like to visit Forest Park and see for yourself what all the fuss is about, you can find parking at the Upper Macleay Parking lot, near the Audubon Society, or the Lower Macleay parking lot (which is temporarily closed at this time).
Although the hike is only half a mile each way, Ayla and I continued on for a while, past the Stone House, because we were having a nice time.
Whether you are an avid hiker and would like to tackle the 11-mile loop, or you would rather take a short hike to see the Stone House, Forest park is definitely worth a visit!
A lovely time with a lovely human <3
Sorry I missed your reply. It was a lovely time. We must go again soon! <3
Mortimer Stump is one absolutely glorious name! Otherwise that forest, especially in the fall, looks gorgeous 😀
I agree! Great name. 😀
Alice! I have wanted to go to this castle since forever! Your pictures, especially the forest fog, just make me want to go NOW. What a cool adventure!
Thanks Leona, It was a fun hike. I love fog!